Thursday, September 10, 2009

Einstadt, Haydn and the Stations of the Cross

August 11th, 2009

The German word of the day for Aug. 10 was Autobhan, which translated into freeway.

We are on the way to the Austrian Alps right now, but not without making a stop first in Einstadt (aka Haydn country). Haydn Explosive, an interpretive art exhibit about the famous composer and his patrons, was being held at the Schloss Esterházy. The House of Esterházy was a noble Hungarian family that rose to accord in Austria during the 1600s. They were great patrons of Haydn and financed many of his musical works. Patronage was an important aspect of art culture because it was one of the only ways to get exposure for an artist. It is difficult for people to understand, but some of the greatest artists the world ever knew did their art based on their patrons specifications and not their own artistic genius. Below is Schloss Esterházy.


I think that Haydn Explosive was a little strange and flamboyant considering the subject matter. The artist of the exhibit says in a booklet that he was trying to reinstitute "the infectious joie de vivre of the eighteenth century [and explode] it back to life." Pop-art style carpets and psychedelic Haydn heads on wallpaper surrounded the famous photographs, paintings and autographs throughout the exhibit. In the second room of the exhibit there was a ceiling projection that was meant to show the influence of Haydn in Europe and London. It really just confused me with its cockroaches, bright colors and doomsday-like finish. It is hard to explain without being there, but the projection for me was over dramatic.

A really cool thing that I did see at the exhibit was Haydn's autograph copy of God Save Emperor Francis (Gott erhalte Franz den Kaiser), which is the theme of the German national anthem. There were also numerous theater bills, "beginner" symphonies, and works that had notes crossed off and redrawn in by the famous composer. It was almost like being able to see what Haydn was thinking while he was composing.

After the exhibit the group went to a really interesting shrine that laid out the Stations of the Cross. This is meant to depict the final hours of Jesus Christ and the Passion. Architecturally the building was interesting because you entered at the bottom and walked up stairs in a way that was meant to mirror Jesus’ final steps, or ascension into Heaven. At the top of the Kalvarienberg und Wallfahrtskapelle you walk out into the open air and get an amazing view of the Austrian countryside. Below are pictures of the shrine and Veronica wiping the face of Jesus.


After our excursion there was only one more thing that we could do, and that is drink beer! A small group of us went to a microbrewery, which is an aspect of the trip that I was really looking forward to trying. I wanted to compare the Belgian ales we brew at the restaurant I work at in Sacramento with the "real deal" in Austria and Germany. I am really happy to say that they are quite similar in body and flavor! I made friends with a server in the restaurant after telling him I worked at a brewery and he proceeded to give me tasters of every beer in the restaurant. That is the perk of working in the business!

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