Karlskirche

August 21st, 2009

I realized this morning that by visiting Stephansdom twice at the beginning of the trip I have failed to visit the scheduled Karlskirche, one of the more famous churches within Wien. Just looking at Karlskirche will tell you that the Greeks, Romans, French and Italians heavily influenced the architect, Johann Bernard Fisher von Erlach. The columns at the front of the church are similar to the Trajan Columns in Rome, and the dome at the top of the church has a distinct Italian flare. The reliefs on the front spiraling columns explain the life story of Saint Carlo Borromeo, as does the fresco on the ceiling of the church. Fisher is also the architect of the Schönbrunn Palace.


Karlskirche was built after Emperor Charles VI made a plea with his patron saint (Borromeo) that if the plague would end in Wien he would erect the church as thanks. The plague in 1713 was destroying the population of Wien, and many times rulers will partake in great acts of patronage towards saints if their "prayers" for salvation come true. There are a lot of things about this church in particular that I liked. The high alter is one of my favorite so far on the trip! The alter painting shows the ascension of St Borromeo, and I really liked the gold work on the top. After some research I found that the piece is a symbol for Yahweh, which is "the personal name of the one true God who delivered Israel from Egypt and gave the Ten Commandments."


While I was walking in the church the sun was streaming in from the alter at the perfect angle, so it was quite beautiful to look at. One of the cool things about the Kalskirche is that you can take an elevator and stairs to the church's ceiling to check out the famous fresco by Johann Michael Rottmayr. I thought that it was amazing that they would let anyone so close to the ceiling without checking for pens or paint to vandalize it with. It is kind of sad that that is where my mind wanders, but I could picture some anarchist bringing in red paint and destroying the fresco! The artwork shows the intercession of Charles Borromeo, supported by the Virgin Mary.


It was funny because everyone who went on the initial trip to the church was telling me how "scary" it was to climb up the steps to the ceiling. After climbing up the steps of the south tower of Stephansdom nothing can scare me!

Schönbrunn Gardens

August 20th, 2009

The German word of the day is gesund, which translates to "healthy." 

I have started hitting a roadblock internally on the trip: Exhaustion. I am so tired that all I want to do is sleep! Having something to do everyday really takes everything out of you, especially when it is hot and muggy. I stayed in for the most of the day today but then felt guilty since there is not that much time left on the trip. To make up for that Jan, Anthony and myself decide to take the subway to Schönbrunn Palace to go to the Z00. By the time we got there (5pm) the Zoo was going to close in an hour, so definitely not worth it!


Instead the three of us decided to check out the gardens that were situated on the beautiful estate. Looking at The Great Palm House you don't even have to go inside, you can marvel at the fantastic iron structure standing in front of you! It has two 28-meter high central pavilions and two lateral pavilions that are three meters lower. This allows for circulation that helps keep the building at four climatic zones, allowing for multiple species to flourish.


The Dutch-Botanic Garden was set up in a tropical environment, which actually made me want to be in the air outside! I love walking around in gardens though. I like to see plants and flowers that I would never get the chance too. An inventory of the entire stock of the Dutch-Botanic Garden dated 1799 lists 4,000 plants of nearly 800 different species.


We also walked into the Wustenhaus, which is a scene out of Arizona. Lots of cacti, birds and scenes close to home. More humidity.



The Baroque gardens were some of the most beautiful that I had seen in Vienna. It was particularly lovely in the back of the palace looking up towards the Gloriette from Schönbrunn Palace. Below is a picture of the palace and some of its gardens.

The United Nations -- IAEA and UNODC

August 19th, 2009

Today I used my passport inside of Wien to get into international territory. In other words, I went to the UN today!


It is a treat as a political science minor to be able to visit the United Nations in the Wien International Center. We were able to have talks with representatives from the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) and United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC). Well get to that later though...


I really liked the architecture of the UN building because of how unique it looks. Apparently the architect started building from the top down to make the curved shape, which I think is incredible. The courtyard has 193 representative flags for its members which includes Vatican City, which I think is rather strange. The tour guide gave us the generic tour at first, pointing out other official bodies that are located at the UN. I wish we had a tour guide from the one that focuses on space exploration because I would have asked when Star Trek is actually going to happen in real life! (I really would have asked...) We were taken into the conference room that the respected countries meet to "talk business".


I could get used to this desk job!


Our guide from the IAEA was politically correct, which I understand but pisses me off. I know there were questions that he answered from the standpoint of the UN rather than his own personal feelings. It was frustrating because it seemed like he was reading off of slides rather than answering our questions straight up. I asked him about the possibility of a nuclear attack with missing material from Russia and he cut me off by saying that all weapons were accounted for. What I was trying to ask was about nuclear waste or materials of that nature, which I know is a different story. Oh well, he was a nice guy anyways. I do understand that once an individual becomes a member of the UN than they have to go by the vote of the charter. I just wish he could have been more up front with us. It seemed like a lot of our questions were not applicable for the discussion because we were asking questions about disarmament of countries. Apparently that is something that the IAEA does not handle. There were a lot of questions from different students and I wish I had been able to ask if there were any medical advances with nuclear power that we might be able to expect in the future. One of the major goals of the organization is to make sure that nuclear power is used for productive means rather than destructive. I also liked when he said that just because a country has the means or capability to house a nuclear program does not mean that they will get the funding for it. It makes me feel like we are not out there putting a potentially destructive power in some terrorist’s hands.

After the talk with the IAEA we met with two interns who told us about what we would need to do to apply. I thought it was cool that they took the time to go over the application process with us since it is so extensive. Unfortunately you have to have your BA to apply, so now everyone is out of the running (at least for now). Speaking English is a huge plus because it will eventually be the language of the world (meaning everyone will know it). Most people that work at the UN have a master of 2-5 languages though, if not more. One again I feel inept compared to my bi-lingual and tri-lingual counterparts giving us the tour. If I could start my education over I would have taken both Spanish and French and SERIOUSLY studied.

After a break for lunch we met with a representative from the UNODC. She was a fill-in but I felt that her presentation was more compelling than the first. I think the reason for this is that you could tell she felt strongly about the cause of drug prevention and treatment centers, and that she really felt like she could make a difference. I, of course, asked the pessimistic questions.

1. With only $20million dollars (their budget) how do you expect to stop drug cartels that are making 2-5 times more than that individually?
-- you can't.
2. When you change a person’s crop from opium to something positive (i.e. food), how do you guarantee the safety of the person who has probably been caught up in the drug wars?
-- you can't.
3. What is the UN doing about the drug problems in Mexico?
-- not enough. (there isn't enough funding.)

See a theme here? There were more questions than these, but these ones were my major focus. It made me feel bad that the speaker felt so strongly about a cause that I see as futile to fight without more money or aid. She made the point though that no person should be forgotten about because of lack of money and no country is beyond help.

Biedermier in the Wien Museum, Ringstraße and the Secessionists

August 18, 2009

The German word of the day is Offen, which translates to "Frank."

Oh Biedermier. You bore me. I don't mean to be rude, but you just don't do it for me. On a scale of 1-10 you are hovering around a 5.6835. You remind me of jellybeans: Pretty on the outside, but once you have too much your stomach starts to ache.

The Biedermier phenomenon that took place from 1815-1848 was an attempt to emulate the nobility by the middle-class. It was originally a term to describe a style of furniture but was quickly changed into "a way of life". Aaron Green, a writer and music enthusiast, says that the cause of the Biedermier period was the end of the French Revolution and the monarchies of Europe trying to keep a grasp of the situation. To make sure there was no a repeat of violence, "monarchies of Europe reigned with steel-fisted precision and secret intelligence agencies." People were "forced out of the coffee houses and into their homes" as different social organizations like lodges and clubs were shut down. Because the world outside is so dangerous, the home and close friends were the focus of the time period. To me, it looks like pre-1950's Americana. On the other hand, the Biedermier style of the Stadttempel (the main synagogue in Vienna) probably saved it from being destroyed during Kristallnact.

In the Wien Museum there were multiple examples of Biedermier art and style. I like this one in particular because it looks like Jan.


Here are some other examples.


The Biedermier was a stand against the Baroque and Rococo styles of "the past" and a push towards restraint, elegance and comfort.

The more interesting artifact that I found at the Wien Museum would have made followers of the Biedermier style completely uncomfortable. Below is the executioner’s sword of the city along with his robe. The wheel was actually used to roll over people’s bodies for torture and snap bones in half. Ewwwwww...


I also went on the Ringstraße tour today, which was very relaxing. The tour was a yellow tram that traveled along the route where the old wall of the city used to stand. It shows how the buildings inside the original wall have expanded to fit a more "global" purpose while at the same time explaining the urban growth that has taken place in Wien. The buildings along the tour are a clear example of what the Secessionists were againgst, which is historical purpose in architecture. Each individual building has a different architectural style that represents its purpose or function. For example, Parliament is in the Neo-Classical style meant to emulate Greece and the foundations of democracy.


The Kunsthistorisches and Naturhistorisches Museums are in the Renaissance architectural style. During the Renaissance there was a push towards classical study and learning, which is the function of the two museums. (The one below is the Naturhistorisches.)


The Hofburg Palace might be Neo-Baroque to represent the Absolutism and excess of the monarchy, but I particularly enjoy the older Renaissance courtyard next to the treasury.


I personally prefer the architecture to be in historical style and function rather than follow the ideals of the Secessionists. Maybe that is the history major in me, but I like to see a nations history in its buildings. I understand paintings a little more and do not mind them not having historical context, although I do not believe the latter of the two should be done away with completely. I personally like Klimt to a certain degree. He is not my favorite artist in the world, and this is going to piss Kathy off, but I actually enjoy Scheele more. I do, however, recognize any group that is trying to make a movement or statement in the art world like the Secessionists were. Below is the Secession Hall in Wien where the art of Secessionists like Klimt, Schiele, Moser and Fabiani can be found today.

I'm Going Going, Back to Back, to Klosterneuburg.

August 15-16, 2009

I have decided to take this three-day weekend easy and travel with a small group back to Klosterneuburg. Father Clemens was so kind as to take time out of his day on Saturday to show us the Imperial Treasury. This is quite an honor because not everyone gets to have a tour of the two rooms that hold the treasures of the church. There are graduate and PhD students that have been denied access to the treasury, so it makes us all feel pretty special just to be able to enter.

There are many different treasures at Klosterneuburg that are known the world over. They have one of the only full sets of Jugendstil style vestments in the world, which is an Austrian style of Art Nouveau. The decorative patterns are ornate and heavy, and Father Clemens frequently questioned why they were being displayed upright rather than flat. I think it is interesting that popular Otto Wagner's artistic style of the day were becoming popular in the church as well.


This is a picture of the abbey's Nativity Scene, which depicts the birth of Jesus as described by Matthew and Luke. This Nativity is still used today in the church for the major holidays.


This is the skull of St Leopold. Enough said.


The Archducal Crown of Austria still resides in Klosterneuburg, as well as a papal excommunication if one should remove the crown for a given period of time.


These relics are posted for Kathy.


After the tour Father Clemens and joined us again at the wine garden, although it was a lot more tame this time. He brought with him a man in his Novitiate named Michael, who I ended up talking to most of the night. The Novitiate is a period of training that one must go through within a religious order before they take their vows. Michael hails from southern California so it was interesting to hear his perspective on American and European politics. I enjoyed hearing about his political views and we talked about everything from Obama to immigration to abortion. Table talk at its finest!

The next day Jan, Harrison, Caralee and myself decided to go to Sunday Mass, which was being performed by Father Clemens. I had a limited idea of what was going on, since the service was in German. I sat next to Jan and she very quietly translated the service for me. This is slightly ironic, but I have now been to Stift Klosterneuburg more times that I have been to church in America. Hmmm...


After the service we went with Father Clemens and Michael to get coffee. It was interesting because as we were in conversation, Father Elias decided to join us. I think that everyone in the coffee shop was wondering why the American tourists were so important! It turns out that Father Elias is from the United States as well and has been at Klosterneuburg about as long as Father Clemens. For me it was an amazing experience to be able to have such candid talk with so many important people within the church. They broke down barriers that I never knew existed within myself. By talking and joking with them it allowed me to respect their beliefs and place in the church yet at the same time see them as "normal" human beings.

The Enlightenment, Mozart and The Opera

August 14th, 2009  

The German word of the day is dei der, which translates to "at your place."

The Enlightenment. This blog could be the longest one yet, but I am going to hold back!

The Enlightenment is a broad term used to describe a time in history (the eighteenth century) when people aspired toward freedom for individual thought and reason. Liberty, individual and natural rights, reason and logical reasoning were introduced during this time period. This new way of thinking was spread in places like coffee shops and salons; places where the church and the state did not have a hold. It created a divide within the Hopsburgs between those who embraced old school tradition and those who ushered in the new age.

In France and England the Enlightenment took hold through a "bottom-up process", meaning it was the work of peasants rather than the aristocrats who spread the ideas. Freemasonic lodges took hold that encompassed the ideals of "liberty, equality and fraternity". In many German-speaking countries the process of Enlightenment was more "top-down", meaning starting with the monarchy. Maria Theresa was an enlightened thinker in the fact that she thought more of the state than traditional dynastic terms. She founded multiple academies for military and academic purposes, promoted financial reforms through agriculture and helped to build a stronger Austria. At the same time as this was going on, however, she expelled the Jews from Bohemia and Prague. With the death of her husband, her son Joseph II became co-ruler and took up more enlightened ideals than his mother. There was bickering for some time between the two co-regents (Joseph didn't agree with his mothers disproval of religious toleration), but when she died he changed the governmental system within his empire. Joseph II practiced a term of enlightened despotism within his territories, supported mass education, secularized churches, abolished serfdom and did anything for the state that was within "reason". He was the product of an age of enlightenment.

The great composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart is a later product of enlightenment ideals. He was mentioned in class because of our trip to the opera later in the evening. Mozart was the 7th (and last) child born to his parents, and only one of two to survive. He was a musical prodigy who started composing by the age of five and performing at seven. After he gained fame and notoriety his goal was to raise music to a fine art form, which at the time it was not. Music was not seen as a tangible good, like painting or sculpting. He began his career in Salzburg and ended up in Wien after being dismissed from the court. His greatest successes were in his last years in Wien and include Don Giovanni, The Marriage of Figaro and The Magic Flute. He died poor in a common grave, but steadily grew in popularity after his death. Below is the monument to Mozart in the Wien Central Cemetery.

The class went on an excursion to the opera Don Giovanni tonight, which ended up being incredibly entertaining! I have always wanted to attend an opera because I like to watch people in their fancy gowns and nice suits. The modern interpretation of the play was interesting because it was easy to understand and more relatable to the culture today. The voices were incredible and the acting was superb. There were some major differences in the updated version that I think actually made the story better. Instead of everything happening in one day the story is spread out over a lifetime. Don Giovanni and his crew age after his encounter with the statue (which is now a head), and I think he was haunted by Don Pedro. This is somehow more believable for me. I liked how everything was set at a modern hotel in Wien, and I especially liked the last scene before intermission. This scene was strange because it was "supposed" to be Don Giovanni escaping from his captors but in the modern play it was staged like some drug infused chaotic mess. For my first opera I thoroughly enjoyed it and I would definitely go back to another!


I have to mention the end of the night because it was go random! One of Kathy's friends, "The Original" Lady Gaga, "kidnapped" us and brought is to her bar for free drinks and appetizers. In our opera clothes we went to a Romanian bar filled with techno music and cigarette smoke. IT WAS AWESOME! Lady Gaga was super friendly and wanted to thank Kathy for giving her a free ticket. She gave all of us her e-mail address and told me, at the end of the night, "to take in Wien with an open heart."

Seegrotte and Burg Liechtenstein

August 13th, 2009

Students on the trip were very "tired" the day that we left the Alps, so that made it interesting considering we had an action packed day in store for us! Burg Liechtenstein is a castle in southern Austria that is right on the edge of Vienna's forest (Wienerwald). Unfortunately the castle was closed for repairs, like everything else in Vienna. It seems that all of Austria is in a constant state of repair, although I was definitely impressed by what I saw! This is the first castle that I have ever been close to so it was strange to think about the people that would have lived behind the walls in the 12th century. The castle was actually severely damaged during the Turkish sieges and was not rebuilt until 1884.


The Seegrotte tour was a really interesting tour and connects with the Nazi history that will be learning about later on the trip. The group traveled to Hinterbrühl, which is a small town in lower Austria. The tour guide said that The Seegrotte is a system of caves that includes Europe's largest underground lake. According to Wikipedia, "During the Second World War, a satellite camp of Mauthausen concentration camp was opened inside the caverns, producing parts for the He 162 jet fighter."


The lake formed after a mining accident in which a water line through a mountain was hit, flooding the cave. I'm sure that there were a lot of casualties that took place in the mine which is why I also find it rather interesting that Disney decided to later film the movie The Three Musketeers down there. That fact, to me, is rather creepy. We also found out after the tour that a couple of years back one of the boats that we were riding in flipped over and killed some tourists. On a better note the cave is very beautiful and I love the way that the reflection off of the water mirrors the interior of the cavern.